Sewing machine



Jam 2, 1934.

J. M. WSHBURN SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 18, 1950 2 Sheets-Sheet l HIPS A' tor-:zeugs Filed Aug. 18, 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Jan. 2, 1934 UNETED STATES PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE Application August 18, 1930. Serial No. 476,119

2o claims;

This invention is herein shown and illustrated as embodied in an overseaming machine of the well known Merrow type, such as shown and described in United States Patents #733,760 and #591,049; for detailed illustrations and descriptions of which reference may be had; and the present illustrations, descriptions and claims particularly represent the devices included in my present invention, which is especially directed to the improvement of work guiding and feeding means; and its object is to automatically produce results and improve operations which heretofore have been done partly by manipulations performed by the machine operator,'especially `when the application of welting, (blind stitch hemming) crosses seams or uneven thicknesses of the material as described in United States Patent #1,649,360. I In blind stitch hemming it will be understood that the material is doubled into an edge fold and the free edge of the material is then folded back, usually by the operator, on the doubled portion and extends beyond the edge fold of said portion and is usually to be trimmed olf in advance of the overseam stitching, which is to extend through and over the free edge of the material and also through the very edge of the edge fold, thus securing the free edge of the material to the edge fold. When the material is of sufficient thickness, the needle penetrates the edge of the doubled edge fold Without passing through to the inside thereof, and thus, when after stitching, the work is unfolded, the stitches will not appear on the face of the material, and the edge of the material which was free before overstitching, will be secured to the material, forming a soi-called welt or blind stitch hem.

In order to produce blind stitch hemming accurately, the edge fold of the material, to be penetrated by the needle, must be nicely guided, but at points where stitching must cross transverse seams in the material, the 'doubled or folded seam projects beyond the rest of the material and whenever the seam is f ed along the edge of a stationary guide, the projecting seam pushes the material adjacent the seam laterally and out of line of the stitching, which causes the needle to avoid the edge fold of the material at points closely adjacent the seam, so that at such points the free edge of the material is left unsecured to the edge fold of the material. The folded edge of the fabric normally extends very slightly beyond the right hand edge of the presserfoot but when the extra thickness caused by a cross seam moves along toward the needle, this cross seam, at the fold, projects somewhat outside the line of the folded edge of the fabric and is naturally pressed laterally slightly by the edge guide atV the same time also moving the work adjacent the seam slightly away from the edge guide far enough possibly to subsequently prevent the needle from penetrating the folded edge adjacent the seam were not means provided to counteract the tendency. To facilitate counteracting this tendency the presserfoot is provided with diagonal or angularly disposed sides which act upon the seam to deflect it slightly but just enough to carry the work far enough into the linev of needle penetration close to the seam to ensure needle penetration at such points.

In the accompanying drawings,

Figure l is a perspective View of sewing machine mechanism embodying my invention.

Figure 2 is an elevation viewpartlyv in section of the mechanism shown in Fig. 1.

Figure 3 is a sectional view on line 3--3l of Fig. 2.

Figure 4 is a detail view of transversely searned 4 material indicating the manner of folding the fabric to form a blind stitch hem and showing in plan certain machine elements and their respective positions relative to the work as it is fed to the stitching mechanism.

Figure 5 is an enlarged diagraminaticalY view showing in section a margin of transversely searned material folded to form a blind stitch hem and indicating the depthwise relation of superimposed marginal plies of material with respect to guide, gauge `and feed elements.

Figure 6 is a plan view of elements shownin Fig. 5, the presserfoot being shown in section on line 6-6 of Fig. 5. f

Figure '7 is a top4 plan View of a presserfoot vformed in accordance with my invention, and,-

Figure 8 is a sectional view on line 8--8 of Fig. 7. y

Referring to the drawings, stitch forming The presserfoot 5, is preferably hinged to the shank 1l, by pivotal pin 12, which passes through lugs 13. The side 14, of the presserfoot is slightly diagonal to the line of feed, and with the lower surface of the foot, acts in cooperation with the feed, to guide the seam bulk and the folded edge of material immediately adjacent thereto, into the line of needle penetration, and the opposite edge 15, of the bottom of the presserfoot is also made diagonal. Elsewhere upon material passing under the presserfoot than at a cross seam ridge the thickness of the material is uniform and does not receive an impression of sufficient depth to effect appreciable change in the direction of feed imparted to the material by a feed dog or dogs, but a cross seam ridge on the material is, while engaged by the presserfoot, impressed with a channel, and the sides of this channel, as the work is advanced by the feed, tends to follow the sides of the presserfoot. Thus, with sides of the presserfoot suitably inclined or disposed at an angle to the path of the feeding' devices, the margin of material at the cross seam will be deflected in accordance with the diagonal trend of the sides. The edge of the presserfoot is provided with a projection 16 (see Figs. 5, 6 and 7) having an inclined work engaging surface 16 to guide and hold down a slight area of material adjacent the trimming cutters.. As shown in Fig. 6 projection 16 is substantially coextensive with the width of trimming cutters 8 and 9. The stitch finger 17, is adjustably secured to the presserfoot by screw 18, passing through its shank, a portion 19, of which projects beyond the edge of the presserfoot to serve as a guide and to hold down the free edge of the material in advance and trimming. (See Fig. l.)

The needle plate 4, is provided with feed slot 20, and needle slot 21, as in the usual manner, and also with the inclined surface 22, which extends under the work engaging surface of the presserfoot sufciently to permit the seam bulk to be fed in normal or uncompressed condition just under the flat portion 23 of the presserfoot so that when the feed dog rises to engage the work at the seam bulk the latter is compressed between parallel surfaces substantially at commencement of the work advancing movement of the feed dog thus causing little disarrangement of the hem folds during the feeding operation. Both the upmost level surface of the needle plate and the relatively inclined surface 22 thereof may be serrated as indicated for the usual purpose of preventing backward slipping of the work.

The edge guide .24, is pivotally secured to an adjustable slide or carrier 25, by screw 26, in bushing 27, and is provided with recess 28, to give cooperative clearance between the free end 29, of the hem fold gauge 30, and also is preferably provided with recess 31, in such cooperative position with respect to feed dog 5 and presserfoot 6, that it will permit a seam fold adjacent the edge guide to move slightly laterally just prior to its engagement between the feed dog and presserfoot. Thus the recess 31 permits material at the cross seam to make an initial shift in the desired direction so that the further shift required and adapted to be effected by the diagonal trend of the presserfoot sides will be of lesser degree than would otherwise be the case. It will be noted that when the cross seam has shifted into the recess 31, of the pivotally secured edge guide, the material laterally adjacent thereto passes between and under subsequent control of the presserfoot and needle plate, or presserfoot and feed dog, whereby as it passes beyond recess 31 said seam at the edge fold is prevented from being again laterally shifted to its former relation to the edge guide. Obviously the cross seam when held by the presserfoot and needle plate, or presserfoot and feed dog, is, at the edge fold, pressed against that portion of the edge guide which is free to yield readily against the effect of spring 36. The forward end of edge guide 24, is beveled at 33, to give clearance for the portion of the hem fold which extends beyond the edge fold.

The pivotal movement of the edge guide 24, is limited at one end by its contact with the shoulder 34, of the slide 25, against which it is normally held by the spring 36, the pin 37, inside the said spring acting as a stop for the movement of the guide in the opposite direction, which is regulated by screw 38.

The hinged fold gauge 30, may be swung into or out of effective position through hinge joint comprising block 39, pin 40 and block 41. Block 41, is adjustably secured to slide 25, by screw 43.

The swinging work plate 44, is provided with the work engaging ridge 45, located near its turned down forward edge 46, and when in its normal and cooperative position with edge guide 24, as shown in Fig. 1, said work engaging ridge reaches under the edge guide at the relief 47, provided therefor. The upper surface of the ridge 45, is preferably in a plane below that of the work engaging surface of the hem fold gauge 30. As the work progresses over the turned down portion 46, of the swinging work plate 44, its lower surface is subsequently engaged by the work engaging ridge 45, and the hem fold, in contact therewith and with the forward end of the edge guide 24, is thereby somewhat flattened before it is presented to the free end of the hem fold gauge 30, and before it enters into cooperative relation with presserfoot 5, edge guide 24, and

feed dog 6. The work plate 44, and the work engaging ridge 45, are preferably located in planes below the top of the needle plate 4, which facilitates the control of the folded edge of the material when under slight tension, in relation to the edge guide 24, as shown in Fig. 5.

In operating a machine provided with my improvements, the material is rst prepared by the operator by folding as hereinbefore described and it is afterward placed upon the needle plate 4, under the presserfoot 5, with its edge fold against the edge guide 2,4, and with the free end of the hinged hem fold gauge 30, placed within the fold, and with the free edge of the material extending over the edge guide 24, as shown in Fig. 4. While the work is fed along by the feed dogs 6 and 7, the free edge of the material is trimmed off by the upper cutter 9, co-ordinating with the lower cutter 8, preparatory to the stitching operations of the needle 1, the upper looper 2, and

the lower looper 3. As already intimated the edge guide in its initial effect, upon material at or adjacent a cross seam or other irregularity, as such bulk progresses towards the stitching elements, laterally pushes this bulk away from the regular line of stitching so that, lacking means to overcome it, this portion upon arriving at the stitching elements may be so disarranged that the needle while probably penetrating the seam might not penetrate the edge fold of the material at points immediately adjacent the seam thus failing to secure with stitches the free edge of material at such points. But as the seam is fed along, it passes beyond the pivotal point of the edge guide 24 which may yield laterally within 5 further adjustment in the direction of yield of the edge guide by recess 31 in the latter, and while thus accommodated the seam passes under subsequent control of the presserfoot and needle plate, or presserfoot and feed dog. The action of the feed dog as it advances the work then presses the seam against the bottom flat face of the presserfoot, which as explained, is formed with a guiding edge 14, slightly diagonal to the line of feed, so that as the folds of the seam progress under the presserfoot, this diagonal edge on the foot automatically guides the seam into position to permit the needle to enter it and also to enter the edge of the edge fold of the material immediately adjacent the seam as Well as the free edge of the material. This nal slight shift of the seam is readily permitted, as it passes beyond recess 31 in the edge guide, by further slight yielding of the edge guide against its spring 36 and the guiding action is facilitated by virtue of the fact that the edge of the bottom of the presserfoot is diagonally relieved opposite to the diagonal side 14.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is,-

l. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements and trimming devices, one or more feed dogs to advance the work, a needle plate provided with feed and needle slots and having an incline transversely intersected by the path of one or more feed dogs, said incline being in advance of the stitching elements, a presserfoot having a bearing surface opposed to the needle plate and feed and extended over said incline, said bearing surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feed, a yielding edge guide for directing a folded edge of material and having its forward end relieved to facilitate the passage of the free end of the material overlying said folded edge, a hem fold gauge to hold a fold of material adjacent the edge guide in advance of the incline on the needle plate and to cooperate with the edge guide and trimming devices toy denne a definite depth'of hem, a work plate having its work receiving surface slightly below the level surface of the needle plate, and a ridge in advance of the gauge, for flattening the hem fold.

2. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements and trimming devices, one or more feed dogs to advance the work, a needle plate provided with feed and needle slots and having an incline transversely intersected by the path of one or more feed dogs, said incline being in advance of the stitching elements, a presserfoot having a bearing surface opposed tothe needle plate and feed and extended over said incline, said bearing surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feed, a yielding edge guide for directing a folded edge of material, a hem fold gauge to hold a fold of material adjacent the edge guide in advance of the incline on the needle plate and to cooperate with the edge guide and trimming devices to define a definite depth of hem, a Work plate having its workreceiving surface slightly below the level surface of the needle plate, and a ridge in advance of the gauge, for flattening the hem fold.

3. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements and trimming devices,

J @one or more feed dogs to advance the work, a

needle plate provided with feed and needle slots and having an incline transversely intersected by the path of one or more feed dogs, said incline being in advance of the stitching elements, a presserfoot having a bearing surface opposed to the needle plate and feed and extended over said incline, said bearing surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feed, a yielding edge guide for directing a folded edge of material and having its forward end relieved to facilitate the passage of the free end of the material overlying said folded edge, a hem fold gauge to hold a fold of material adjacent the edge guide in advance of the incline on the needle plate and to cooperate with the edge guide and trimming devices to define a definite depth of hem, and a work plate having its work receiving surface slightly below the level surface of the needle plate.

4. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements and trimming devices, one or more feed dogs to advance the work, a needle plate provided with feed and needle slots and having an incline transversely intersected by the path of one or more feed dogs, said incline being in advance of the stitching elements, a presserfoot having a bearing surface opposed to the needle plate and feed and extended over said incline, said bearing surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feed, a yielding edge guide for directing a folded edge of material and having its forward end relieved to facilitate the passage of the free end of the material overlying said folded edge, a hem fold gauge to hold a fold of material adjacent the edge guide in advance of the incline on the needle plate and to cooperate with the edge guide and trimming devices to define a definite depth of hem, a work plate having its work receiving surface slightly below the level surface of the needle plate and merging into a depending forward edge, and a ridge interposed between the gauge and said depending edge, for flattening the hem fold.

5. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements and trimming devices, one or more feed dogs to advance the work, a needle plate provided with feed and needle slots and having an incline transversely intersected by the path of one or more feed dogs, said incline being in advance of the stitching elements, a presserfoot having a bearing surface opposed to the needle plate and feed and extended over the incline, a yielding edge guide for directing a folded edge of material and having its forward end relieved to facilitate the passage of the free end of 1311i the material overlying said folded edge, a hem fold gauge to hold a fold of material adjacent the edge guide in advance of the incline on the needle plate and to cooperate with the edge guide and trimming devices to define a definite depth of hem, a work plate having its work receiving surface slightly below the level surface of the needle plate, and a ridge, in advance of the gauge, for flattening the hem fold.

6. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements and trimming devices, one or more feed dogs to advance the work, a needle plate provided with feed and needle slots and having an incline transversely intersected by the path of one or more feed dogs, said incline being in advance of the stitching elements, a presserfoot having a bearing surface opposed to the needle plate andfeed and extended over said incline, said bearing surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feed, a 15o yielding edge guide for directing a folded edge of material, a hem fold gauge to hold a fold of material adjacent the edge guide in advance of the incline on the needle plate and to cooperate f with the edge guide and trimming devices to denne a definite depth of hem, and a work plate having its work receiving surface slightly below the level surface of the needle plate.

'7. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements, one or more feed dogs to advance the work, a needle plate provided with feed and needle slots and having an incline transversely intersected by the path of one or more feed dogs, said incline being in advance of the stitching elements, a presserfoot having a bearing surface opposed to the needle plate and feed and extended over said incline, said bearing surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feed, a yielding edge guide for directing a folded edge of material, and a work plate having its work receiving surface slightly below the level surface of the needle plate.

8. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements, one or more feed dogs Y`to advance the work, a needle plate provided with feed and needle slots and having an incline transversely intersected by the path of one or more feed dogs, said incline being in advance of the stitching elements, a presserfoot having a bear- `ing surface opposed to the needle plate and feed and extended over the incline, said surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feed, and a yielding edge guide for directing a folded edge of material.

9. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements, one or more feed dogs to advance the work, a needle plate provided with feed and needle slots and having an incline transversely intersected by the path of one or more feed dogs, said incline being in advance of the stitching elements, a presserfoot having a bearing surface oposed to the needle plate and feed and extended over the incline, said surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to vthe path of the feed, and a work plate having its work receiving surface slightly below the level surface of the needle plate.

10. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements and feeding means, a

- 'needle plate recessed to accommodate the feeding means and having an incline transversely intersected by the path of movement of the feeding means, said incline being in advance of the stitching elements, and a presserfoot having a at bearing surface opposed to the needle plate and feed and extended over the incline, said surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feed.

l1. A sewing machine having in combination with stitching elements and feeding means, a needle plate recessed to accommodate the feeding means and having a level surface and an inclined surface transversely intersected by the path of movement of the feeding means, said surfaces lbeing provided with serrations laterally extended from the feed opening, and the incline being in advance of the stitching elements, and a presserfoot having a flat bearing surface opposed to the needle plate and feeding means and extended over the incline, said surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feed.

12. A sewing machine having in combination,

feeding means, a needle plate recessed-to accommodate the feeding means and having at its forward end an incline defining a plane which is transversely intersected by the path of movement of the feeding means, and a presserfoot having a flat bearing surface opposed to the feed and extended over the incline.

13. A sewing machine having in combination, a needle plate and work plate, each having a work engaging surface with said surfaces respectively at an upper and lower level, and one of said plates having an incline leading from its work engaging surface to the work engaging surface of the other, and with the upper surface and incline intersected by an opening, a presserfoot having a flat bearing surface extending over the opening in both the upper level surface and the incline, and feeding means cooperative with the presserfoot bearing surface opposite the opening in both the upper level surface and the incline.

14. A sewing machine having in combination, a needle plate provided with relatively inclined serrated work engaging surfaces, a presserfoot having a work engaging area respectively over an opening in each of said surfaces of the needle plate, and feeding means cooperative with each area of the presserfoot.

l5. A sewing machine having in combination, feeding means, a needle plate provided with relatively inclined work engaging surfaces, and a presserfoot having a work engaging area respectively over an opening in each of said. surfaces of the needle plate, said feeding means being cooperative with each of said areas of the presserfoot.

16. A sewing machine having in combination, feeding means, a needle plate provided with relatively inclined work engaging surfaces, and a presserfoot having a at bearing surface presenting a work engaging area respectively over an opening in each of said surfaces of the needle plate, said bearing surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feed, and said feeding means being cooperative with each of said areas of the presserfoot.

17. A sewing machine having in combination, feeding means, a needle plate recessed to accommodate the feeding means, and a presserfoot having a flat bearing surface opposed to the recessed portion of the needle plate, extending therebeyond, and laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feeding means.

18. A sewing machine having in combination, feeding means, a needle plate recessed to accommodate the feeding means, and a presserfoot having a fiat bearing surface opposed to the recessed portion of the needle plate, said bearing surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feeding means.

19. A sewing machine having in combination, feeding means, and a presserfoot having a flat bearing surface opposed to the feeding means, said bearing surface being laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to the path of the feeding means.

20. Anoverseaming machinel having in combination, a laterally yieldable guide for directing work close to a path in which it is to be stitched, and a presserfoot having a flat bearing surface laterally bounded by sides which are diagonal to said path.

JOHN M. WASHBURN. 

